If it concerns filter media that has become wet or dirty, we unfortunately have to charge 100% depreciation because it is no longer marketable due to fish diseases and parasites.
Maylino has a large range of artificial plants, check them all out here. Maylino also has a wide range of decorations.
First commissioning
Put the artificial plants or decorations in plenty of warm water, should the artificial plants be a bit deformed, by shipping you can bring them back into shape by hand.
Cleaning
Clean the artificial plants or decorations in plenty of water with a washing-up brush that you only use for this purpose, you don’t want to get soap residue or other cleaning agents in your aquarium.
For stubborn algae, you can use a mixture of vinegar and water (in a 1:3 ratio). Vinegar is a natural cleaning agent that is effective against algae and fungus. Dip the artificial plants or decorations in this mixture and let it soak in for 15-30 minutes. You can use a washing-up brush to brush off the last residues.
Then rinse very well with warm water.
Soak decorations or artificial plants with textile or porous materials well to make sure all vinegar is gone.
MM² | AWG |
---|---|
0.2 | 24 |
0.3 | 22 |
0.5 | 20 |
0.75 | 18 |
1 | 17 |
1.5 | 15 |
2.5 | 13 |
4 | 11 |
6 | 10 |
There are many different types of USB cables and connectors on the market, to make things a little easier for you, we have compiled an overview of the most common USB cables.
USB Type A cable is usually found on 1 end and fits your PC, laptop and e.g. your game consoles.
USB Type B is mainly known as a printer cable.
Mini USB was used for old MP players, tablets, mobile phones and e.g. old e-readers but also older gaming consoles like the Wii.
Micro USB version is the connector for current generations of these electronics. For Apple, we use lightning cables.
USB Type C, this is the type of cable that is going to be the new standard (mandatory after autumn 2024) for all smartphones, tablets and lots of other devices.

The consumer is liable in the following cases for any depreciation of the product. So treat the product with care and make sure it is properly packed when returning it.
- Obvious signs of use are visible: If the product shows signs of use beyond what is necessary to assess the product.
- The product is damaged or the packaging is more damaged than necessary to try the product: For example, due to careless use or poor packaging during return.
- The product is incomplete: When the product is returned incomplete, such as missing parts, instruction manual or accessories.
- If it concerns filter media that has become wet or dirty, we unfortunately have to charge 100% depreciation because it is no longer marketable due to fish diseases and parasites.
Products you buy through this online shop are custom-made according to the specification you entered. Therefore, the right of withdrawal does not apply. The purchase is considered a successful order.
If your parcel cannot be delivered, it will be taken to a collection point. If you do not collect it there, we will unfortunately have to charge you for the return costs. Once the parcel is back with us, your order will be (partially) cancelled. This also applies if you refuse the parcel at the door. If you have any further questions, feel free to let us know!
Your payment statement shows a name other than Hardscape shop
For payments, Maylino uses the services of Mollie. This is a reputable party that provides payments for online service providers.
If you have any questions about your payment, please contact us. Mollie has no insight into orders placed and only handles payments on our website.
Sometimes we sell used products. The warranty is then shortened to 12 months. That this is a used product is shown on the product page, checkout page and invoices.
This is not a problem at all. You can contact us for this via email or WhatsApp. However, you will bear the cost of returning the product yourself.
Email:
Phone: +316 16479715
After dispatch, you will receive a track trace code to track your shipment.
You can use the Order tracking form to see the status of your order.
If you have created an account, you can view the status via My account on the My orders tab.
- Turn the drop checker upside down
- Add a few ml’s of the indicator liquid to the drop checker
- Hold the drop checker at an angle and tap the edge with a finger so that the liquid enters the “bubble”
- Now turn over the drop checker
- Keep your finger on the hole and place it in your aquarium²
CAUTION!
The use of this device is only permitted if a residual current device with a rated
current value of up to 30 mA is present.
Creates a drip loop so water cannot enter the socket through the electric cable.

Remove the plugs from the socket before getting started in the aquarium. Or a power strip with an on/off switch.

This is actually quite simple. Just look at the colour:
- Blue: too little CO². Carefully (!) inject some more CO² into your aquarium
- Green: OK, but a little bit more would be better
- Lime green: Perfect
- Yellow: too much! Adding less CO2
Replace the solution at every water change. Just turn over the drop checker and rinse it out with osmosis water (not tap water, as this can affect the result!).
If necessary, remove algae residues & clean the suction cup with a fine sponge so that it adheres well again.
- Clean both the male and female end of the threads. This is because dirt and deposits can work against the connection.
- Check what the direction of the wire is. For most tubes, this is clockwise. Can’t see it right away? Then place the tubes together and see which way to turn to screw them on.
- Wrap the Teflon tape around the pipe in the direction of the thread rotation. It is important to stretch the sealing tape a little while applying it so that it is tight.
- Apply at least 3 layers, but no more than 5. If you apply the PTFE tape too thickly, you run the risk of leaking gas or water.
- Cover the entire thread. Is it wider than your sealing tape? Then make sure each layer half overlaps the previous layer.
- After application, tear off the Teflon tape. This way, the tape adheres best.
- Tighten the joint by hand first. Is it tight? Then tighten it permanently with a spanner or water pump pliers.
- Check the pipe for possible leaks with a gas leak search spray or soapy water before use.
step-by-step plan
- shorten the tube at right angle
Make sure you cut the pipe at right angles at the desired length. This ensures that you have an even contact surface in the connection sleeve. If this deviates, there is a chance that the connection is less strong, which can cause leakage.
2. mark the insertion depth
Insert the tube into the connector after sawing it off and mark how far the tube goes into the connector. This way you can see exactly how far you need to glue and avoid using too much glue. You can also use masking tape to prevent you from seeing the stripe afterwards.
Tip
To mark off a straight line, you can fold a sheet of paper around the tube and lay the sides straight on top of each other. along the edge, you will then draw a straight line on a round tube.
3. Deburr the pipe
After trimming, remove all burrs from the pipe using a deburrer. If you do not have one handy, you can also use a file or sandpaper. Deburring the pipe is important because otherwise small particles of PVC may end up in the glue joint, making the joint less strong.
4. Chamfer the tube
For best results, chamfer the tube. By beveling, we mean that the edge of the tube is slightly bevelled on the outside so that there is no longer a sharp edge on the tube. Special tools for this are very expensive; if you do not have them handy, try using a file or sandpaper to remove the sharp edge.
5. Cleaning the pipe and connector
Before you start gluing, clean the pipe with a PVC cleaner such as Griffon cleaner. When cleaning, use a clean lint-free cloth. Besides degreasing and cleaning, the cleaner has another function. The PVC cleaner softens the pipe for even better adhesion of the adhesive to the pipe. So be sure not to skip this step!
6. Apply the glue to the tube and the connector
Apply the glue to the outside of the tube and to the inside of the connector. On the tube you may apply a thick layer of glue, remembering to do this up to the line you marked off earlier when marking the insertion depth. It is also important to spread the glue well over the entire surface that goes into the connector.
After applying glue to the tube, apply another thin layer of glue to the inside of the connector. Remember that too much glue in the joint can cause a build-up of glue on the inside when the two parts are pushed together. Ultimately, this can cause a blockage in your pipe system.
Also make sure that no dirt gets on the part glued first before assembly. Dirty glue ensures that the adhesion will no longer be optimal.
7. assembling the joint
While the glue is still liquid, insert the tube into the joint in a smooth motion, try to position the joint as well as possible because you won’t have much time left to adjust it. So before fitting, look at the time you have to adjust the joint. This varies a bit from one glue to another.
8. Remove glue residue
Immediately after assembling the joint, remove the excess glue with a clean lint-free cloth. If you do not do this, the glue may weaken the pipe and cause leakage. If you have used masking tape when marking the insertion depth, you can often do this in one go by removing the tape.
9. drying
Finally, let the joint dry. Letting it dry too well makes the joint stronger.
DN6=1/8″ |
DN8=1/4″ |
DN10=3/8″ |
DN15=1/2″ |
DN20=3/4″ |
DN25=1″ |
DN32=1-1/4″ |
DN40=1-1/2″ |
These are shown with first the inside diameter then the outside diameter. For example 12/16 inner diameter of 12mm, outer diameter of 16mm.
PA hoses are shown with outer diameter than wall thickness. For example 6×1 outer diameter of 6mm, wall thickness 1mm.
When indicating the size of ornamental gravel or crushed stone, two different terms may be used, namely sieve fraction (“sieve size”) and exact size. Despite the fact that these terms appear to correspond, there is an important difference between the two.
The sieve fraction/sieve size is the indication in mm of the mesh size of the sieve used during the sieving of the gravel or split after extraction. The exact size of a split grain is not the same as the sieve size used, although it depends on the mesh size.
An example:
A somewhat irregularly shaped stone (ornamental pebble) can have a length of 25 millimeters, while the grain has a width of 15 millimeters. When using a sieve with a mesh size of 15 millimeters, it may happen that the stone in question falls through it. In this case, the stone has landed on the sieve with the shorter side (width). As a result, a sieve fraction indicated with a product does not necessarily mean that it cannot contain stones of larger size.
In the case of a rounder-shaped stone (ornamental gravel), the difference between sieve fraction and exact size is normally smaller, because the dimensions of a round stone (such as length and width) are equal to each other to a greater extent.
The indicated fractions in mm are sieve sizes, so not exact sizes!
Split
Split is crushed rock. The crushing process creates a product with “sharp” angles. Because of the relatively flat fracture surfaces that a split grain has, it “sets” relative to each other, so it provides
Gravel
By gravel we mean natural stone worn round. This can happen by being carried along in rivers.
Gravel can also be rounded by being rotated in drums, deliberately rubbing it against each other. Because gravel is round it does not “set”, this makes gravel more suitable for a bottom filter (UGF).
Yes to rinse away the dust from processing and transportation. This works best with a colander under the tap, but this takes a lot of water if you want all the dust out.
You can rinse a little less to save water. Use a cheap powerhead with plastic bottle filled with cotton wool, to filter out the “mist”. so you don’t damage your expensive pump.
